First good shot of march! On the board, my courageous friend Lisa! I'm happy to go out, smelling the sea again, the sand under my feet, and a bunch of crazy guys who ran half naked!!!
More rude than men, these girls are the top of the Munchkin players I know, of course, I won every week!
I started reading this book having never read anything else by this author and with no idea what this story was about. If anything, I was worried that it would be melodramatic from the sound of the title. By the time I finished the first page I realized that this novel is anything but a breezy, sappy story. The satire was almost biting at times, but this book managed to make me laugh and almost cry before I finished it. I highly recommend it to anyone who likes well written fiction with heaps of social commentary and a sardonic twist.
I discover these old old old photographies of my Grandma Suzan and her friends. Another time, long ago. But th quality of light is awesome! I don't retail these ones, and it's always pretty good work!
Few would argue with the statement that Drew Kampion is the world's best surf journalist. John Severson created the industry, and Kampion has perfected it over the last 30 years. Documenting the history of this ever-shifting subculture is a extremely difficult task, especially since surfers consider themselves "counter-culture."
In Stoked, Kampion touches on every element of surfing culture throughout surf history, and he does so in easy-to-swallow, bite-sized pieces. The Duke, Tom Blake, Malibu, Dora, Lopez, Tom, and Kelly are all here. And the photos are phenomenal. Every classic shot is here: Da Bull at Pipe, the first Day at Waimea, the first issue of The Surfer, and some soon to be classics, like some beautiful tow-in stuff.
To call yourself a real surfer, you must pay homage to those before you who made it possible. You gotta know your history. Drew Kampion brings you the soul of the sport through time, and he makes it lively and fun. Get it! .
When my brothers and sisters of species finishing their work for destroying the planet, I hope I can merge with the sea, it's a dream I have for long time, and I hope it became true, to the end of our world. Until that, feel free to visiting my little world!